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Stage 12. Laxay to Stornoway


Distance Time Elevation in meters

Gain Loss Min Max
24     300 320    



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The Lewis Chessmen



Lewis Chessmen in The British Museum


Even the story of how the world’s most famous chess pieces were discovered on the windswept Isle of Lewis sometime in the 1700s or 1800s is shrouded in a mystery as thick as the fog that often cloaks the mountains and moors of the rugged island in far northwest Scotland. According to contradictory accounts, the Lewis Chessmen were found exposed on a beach following a fierce storm, buried 15 feet underground in a stone container or inside a vaulted room of an ancient nunnery. Some even credit bovine intervention—although there are conflicting stories as to whether a cow dug the chess pieces out of the sand with its horn or happened upon them after falling down a hole.

The hoard found on the Isle of Lewis included 78 chess pieces, 14 plain discs that could have been used for another tabletop game and one buckle that might have been from a bag that once contained them. Fashioned from walrus ivory harvested from Greenland (except for four pieces carved from whale’s teeth), the figures could be part of as many as five chess sets. Although the pawns are simple geometric shapes, the other pieces are intricately carved human figures with almost comic appearances that include bulging eyes and expressive faces. Stout kings sit stoically on their thrones, while queens raise their right hands to their jaws in looks of shock or grief. Knights astride small horses brandish spears and shields. In the earliest known instances of bishops in a chess set, the religious figures clasp ceremonial crooks to their cheeks as they raise their hands in blessing.

Although scholars can’t definitively say when the Lewis Chessmen were carved, the style matches other objects that have been conclusively dated to between A.D. 1150 and 1200, just after the end of the Viking Age and a time when Norway still ruled the Outer Hebrides. Also, the tall miters sported by the bishops have their points in the front and back, an ecclesiastical fashion that did not begin until around 1150. (Prior to that, bishops wore miter points on the sides, which gave them the unfortunate appearance of having horns sprouting from their heads.)

The ornamentations of the Lewis Chessmen are distinctively Scandinavian, but which Nordic country is responsible for their creation remains unknown. “Instead of facts about these chessmen, we have clues,” writes Nancy Marie Brown in her book “Ivory Vikings: The Mystery of the Most Famous Chessmen in the World and the Woman Who Made Them.” Four wild-eyed rooks, biting their kite-shaped shields in a battle frenzy, present some of the biggest clues. A year after the public unveiling of the Lewis Chessmen, the British Museum’s Frederic Madden recognized the figures as “berserkers”—fierce Viking warriors of the Norse god Odin—based upon his knowledge of Icelandic sagas. “The berserkers are probably the only images of what people back in that time thought the Vikings looked like,” Brown says.

Conventional wisdom among scholars, however, grew that the Lewis Chessmen were likely crafted in Trondheim, Norway, which in the 12th century was home to highly skilled craftsmen, wealthy patrons who could afford expensive walrus tusks and similar-looking carvings. In 2010, Icelandic natives Gudmundur Thorarinsson and Einar Einarsson garnered newspaper headlines by resurrecting Madden’s theory and pointing to passages in Icelandic sagas that mention the use of bishops in chess games and the key role placed by Icelanders in the walrus ivory trade.

After mining Icelandic sagas, archaeological studies and the history of board games and Viking trade routes, Brown also concluded that it was quite possible that the Lewis Chessmen were products of Iceland. Brown theorizes that the chess pieces were commissioned by Pall Jonsson, a bishop of Skalholt who was educated in England, and crafted by a woman named Marget the Adroit, who according to Icelandic sagas carved walrus ivory “so skillfully that no one in Iceland had seen such artistry before.”

“She was considered one of the best artists of her time. The bishop hired her to beautify his church, construct altarpieces and make luxury gifts to send to friends abroad,” says Brown. These lavish artworks included ceremonial crooks carved from walrus ivory that the bishop sent to his counterparts across Scandinavia between 1195 and 1211, a golden age of Icelandic artistic creativity.

Brown says no archaeological proof has been found that Vikings played chess, but there is a description of them doing so in the sagas. “At the time the Vikings were raiding Europe, people were playing chess in those places so they certainly could have learned about the game and brought it back with them,” she says. Brown adds that the types of pieces crafted for the chess set give us insight into how 12th-century Scandinavians viewed their predecessors. “The people making them showed no reason not to stick a Viking fighter and a bishop in the same game. There was no tension between the pagan warrior and Christian symbol fighting on the same side.”

Additionally, a newly identified piece, a "warder", the equivalent of a castle or rook, was sold for £735,000 in July 2019. Four other major pieces, and many pawns, remain missing from the chess sets.

The Warder


Lews Castle, Stornoway

Six of the Lewis Chessmen are on permanent display at Lews Castle, Stornoway, as part of a loan agreement between Comhairle nan Eilean Siar (Western Isles Council) and the British Museum. 







Worth seeing.... The Blackhouse Village at Gearrannan


Gearrannan Blackhouse Village

Garenin (or Gearrannan as it is spelled in Gaelic) is a coastal crofting village on the west coast of the Isle of Lewis, north of Carloway. The area has been settled since ancient times, but the village at Gearrannan dates to the 17th century. Gearrannan inhabitants lived in a type of thatched cottage known as a 'blackhouse', built of stone and turf, with walls of double thickness.

The traditional cottages at Gearrannan are a vestige of an earlier age, a reminder of Hebridean heritage that is almost lost. Nine cottages have been preserved, and turned into a combination of a heritage museum and traditional accommodation, using traditional building methods and tools.

The blackhouses were inhabited until 1974 when the last inhabitants moved into modern housing. For a time the cottages stood empty and began to fall into decay. But a local group stepped in to restore the blackhouses and preserve the heritage of a way of life that was in danger of disappearing forever.

You might be forgiven for thinking that the cottages at Gearrannan are medieval - indeed, they look as if they could be - but in fact, they date to the late 19th century. Within several cottages are examples of the sort of activities the inhabitants would have turned their hand to, including weaving looms.

As you might expect, the interiors are simply furnished, especially by modern standards, but they give a wonderful glimpse into a way of island life that must have changed very little over centuries of settlement here.

Courtesy of www.britainexpress.com




Callanish Standing Stones, 12 miles west of Stornoway off the A859


Callinish Standing Stones

The standing stones of Callanish are a prehistoric complex of stone avenues and lines radiating from a central circle. Callanish stands on a high ridge overlooking Loch Roag, a site that outlines the standing stones against the skyline from several angles. The complex of standing stones was built around 3,000 BC on land that had already been farmed.

The stones were erected in several stages; the first stones erected were just a single line of stones running to the south. About 1000 years later a central cairn was added. Five centuries later the tomb was raided and then altered as part of a dwelling. Around 800 BC the peat began to encroach upon the site, gradually burying the stones to a depth of almost 2 metres in places.

To call Callanish a stone circle is a bit like saying that a car has a steering wheel. Yes, it does, but it is a whole lot more. Callanish consists of a stone circle with a double line, or avenue, of stones leading away to the north. Single lines of stones lead away to the other four points of the compass.

Most of the stones are slender slabs of Lewisian gneiss, set so that their long axes are oriented along the line they are part of. A very tall central monolith 4.75 metres high is surrounded by a circle of 13 stones ranging up to 3.5 metres high. This circle is approximately 5 metres in diameter.

The northern avenue is composed of 9 and 10 stones (east and west sides of the avenue respectively). The avenue stretches 82 metres, and the stones are irregularly spaced. The eastern single line contains 5 stones, the western line 4 stones, and the southern also has 5 stones. That southern line is oriented almost exactly on a north/south line.

The lower section of many of the stones is a slightly paler colour than the top. This is not natural, but the result of peat accumulation. When the peat was partially cleared in 1857 by the local landowner, Sir James Matheson, a small chambered cairn was found in the eastern part of the circle.

Kerb stones supporting this cairn can be seen, and two stones on the east side of the circle have been incorporated into the entrance passage to the cairn. The large monolith stands on the western side of the cairn. The cairn is divided into two chambers, with an entrance passage on the east side. Human bone fragments were found within the cairn.

Though this is the most widely known group of st

ones at Callanish, it is not the only one. Nearby is Callanish II, a group of 7 stones surrounding a ruined cairn. But there's more; five stones arranged in an oval shape form Callanish IV, to the west of the Uig road (B8011). Another small double circle, Callanish III, stands to the south-east of the main circle.

Courtesy of www.britainexpress.com