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The Stevenson Trail

Day 1 Le Puy en Velay to Le Monastier sur Gazeille

9th September 2015

Distance Time Elevation in meters

Km		 Elapsed
Hrs-Mins		 Moving
Hrs-Mins		 Gain Loss Min Max
21.8 5H45 4H39

587

 328 627 982

   

   

 

 

 

 

Last look at Le Puy en Velay as I make my early morning start. Hotel Bristol is conveniently situated on Avenue Maréchal Foch. It was simply a case of turning right up Rue Pierre Farigoule and climbing Avenue d'Ours Mons until reaching Rue Edouard-Estaurié on the right

 

 

The English instructions say "at the crossroads keep straight on and take a track that goes below the farm of "Bel Air". In practice, this means turning left in front of the modern building ahead.

 

You are soon clear of the city and walking on an ancient draille road known as "La calade d'Ours".

I wasn't sure how many people would be on the Stevenson Trail, so I was pleased to have some company!

The trusty "GR" sign to guide me

 

Rich volcanic soil of the Velay

 

The first of many crosses on the trail

Approaching Coubon

Crossing The Loire into Coubon

The Loire

The church in Coubon

Leaving Coubon behind, the trail goes off to the right heading to l"Holme and Poinsac

Old cross competing with Leylandii Hedge; no contest!

Good pasture land

Another cross

An old communal baking oven at l'Holme

Reassuring to know I am on the right trail!

 

 

A not-so-old cross

Entering the village of l'Herm

A typical house of the region built with volcanic tufa

Leaving l'Herm

 

Dry-stone walling

Now this is an old cross

 

 

 

Approaching Monastier sur Gazeille

Monastier sur Gazeille

 

You approach Monastier sur Gazeille along a high ridge before dropping down to the town

 

Fair warning that my auberge "Auberge Les Acacias" is at the far end of the village and will mean a bit further to walk!

A reminder that you are in "Stevenson Country"!

Entering Monastier sur Gazeille

Abbey church of Saint-Chaffre

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was a real Bill Bryson moment when I ventured into the "Bar Du Commerce" for a small libation. There were two locals standing at the bar, and they ignored me completely. The patron, an octogenarian lady, was sat reading the newspaper in the corner of the room. I sat down and waited. Nothing! After about 5 minutes, the lady having reached the end of the particular article she was reading, shuffled to the bar and asked me what I wanted. "A small beer" was my reply and it was duly delivered before the lady went back to her seat to continue the reading of the newspaper. One was left with the impression that life was not for rushing in Monastier sur Gazeille. The same happened as I left. I stood at the bar waiting to pay for 5 minutes with no sign of a reaction from the lady; in the end I went over to her in the corner of the room where she was reading the paper, and offered some coins. There was not a lot of "Du Commerce" going on in this bar, that's for sure!

 

 

A very French thing.... lots of syrups on offer

The official Stevenson monument by the post office...... rather under whelming!

The church of St Jean

 

St. John's Church, Le-Monastier-sur-Gazeille

Romanesque church burnt down in 1362 and rebuilt in the 15th century, the original façade surviving. The western part has remained Romanesque and Romanesque spirit, with its comb. The building consists of a Romanesque span cradle broken accompanying the facade and three Gothic aisles, the last accompanied by two chapels side forming transept, itself forming chorus.

Inside, Gothic vaulting. The Church survived the wars of hundred years and Religion. Few elements of interior decoration, except figured capitals and foliage to the birth of the southern Chapel warheads and the Northern Cross. This building represents one of the rare Gothic churches of the Velay.

 

 

 

Finally, the end of the town and Auberge Les Acacias

 

Accommodation Notes

 

Auberge Les Acacias was a really nice place to stay. Well positioned and with a nice outdoor seating area adjacent to the road. The rooms were very nice, as were the bathroom facilities. They had a washing line adjacent to the back of the building which was handy for any washing that you may want to do. The owners were very friendly and helpful.

The only problem for me was that diner was not until 8 p.m., and with 17 people in the restaurant and only one man serving, my first plate did not arrive until 8-20 p.m., which was a bit late for me as I had not eaten much during the day.

 

 

 

 

My room.... "Myrtle"

Good showering and bathroom facilities