Day 22 Mansilla de las Mulas to León
Wednesday 29th May 2013
20km - 4 hrs
| I set off from Mansilla at 6-40 a.m. and caught up with Katie who was walking ahead of me. We walked together all the way to León. The walk in to León is not particularly interesting. First of all the path goes alongside the N-601 road, although it does veer off a bit as you approach Villarente. It was still quite early and the coffee shops and bars were just in the process of opening up, but we eventually found a bar open on the way out of Villarente. |
Medieval bridge at the entrance to Villarente
Church at Valdelfuente
| Soon after this the path returns to the road and goes alongside the road into León, past industrial areas, built up areas, apartment blocks etc etc. |
The N-601 road
| Just as we entered León proper we were called over to a police check point. At first I thought I was in for a ticking off for not using the proper pedestrian crossing which was some way down the street, but no, they were there to help pilgrims! They gave us a map and highlighted the way to the albergue, the way to the cathedral and other points of interest. They even had their own "sellos" for pilgrims to stamp their credentials. They only information they asked was from which country we had come. Very helpful guys. A credit to the city of León. |
The police information point
| We continued walking through the built up streets until we came to the albergue. I had been told that if I thought walking into León as a pain,I should wait until I walked out as it was far far worse! We arrived at the Benedictine monastery "Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal" at 10-30 a.m. after almost 4 hours walking. The albergue did not open until 11-00 a.m., so we sat just inside the gate at a seating area with a drink machine. This albergue seems to be the only one in León and has 132 beds. |
Katie, Michelle, Lena, Seung Yun Lee and Mick at the albergue seating area
Our peaceful rest prior to registering at the albergue did not last long. We were soon harangued by a very rude and irate lady from the albergue who told us to shut up, and to get outside on the street and wait there. We should not have entered the albergue gardens until 11-00 a.m. We were quite shocked! First of all it seemed quite natural to sit there whilst we waited to register, but the tone in which she addressed us gave the clear message that she despised pilgrims! It was though they had to accept pilgrims into their midst, but pilgrims were plebs! We sat stunned for a few minutes. At 10-55 a.m. a man from the albergue "ordered" me to move my rucksack, which was by my feet, and to place it against the wall. I could not see the point of this and did nothing. He was soon back, haranguing me and ordering me again to move my rucksack. I pointed out on my watch that it was almost time to go in, so what was the point? He continued the haranguing! Having been harangued first of all by the lady, and then by this man, I felt that it was like being in Gulag Benedictus rather than an albergue for pilgrims! I was quite offended. If this was what it was like before you got in, what was it like inside? I decided to vote with my feet, and picked up my rucksack and left. After that I had had enough of the albergue and decided to find a hotel. Katie left with me. They say when one door closes another opens. And it did. I got a room in the Parador San Marcos, the original pilgrim hospital that is now a 5-star hotel. It was WONDERFUL! It was certainly one of the highlights of the whole trip, and I decided to stay for two nights and to have a day off in León to relax and do some sightseeing. O.K., at 85 euro per night inclusive of breakfast it was a lot more that albergue prices, but it was well worth it!
To the Benedictine Albergue, I suggest that they send their staff on a training course to the nuns of the Espiritu Santo albergue in Carion de los Condes to learn how to treat people with respect! |
Accommodation Notes
The Parador San Marcos
The Parador San Marcos
|
