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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright

 

Santiago de Compostela

 

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the final destination of all of the pilgrim routes across Spain, and houses the tomb of St. James the apostle. The tomb is said to have been discovered by a hermit called Paio in the year 814, hidden in the forests of Libredon. King Alfonso II ordered a small church to be built alongside the Roman temple that was found. As the news spread around Europe numerous believers set out on pilgrimage to see the tomb. King Alfonso III ordered the construction of a larger church, which was consecrated in the year 899. This led to a settlement which is today Santiago de Compostela.

In the year 997, Almanzo attacked the city, raising the church and taking the cathedral bells and the doors as booty. Bishop Pedro de Mezonzo, who managed to escape along with the relics, rebuilt the church.

The tomb's fame continued growing and the new church once again proved insufficient to hold the numerous pilgrims. In 1075, construction began on the basilica that exists today. It is in Romanesque style, with a Latin-cross ground plan and towers that can be seen from a considerable distance. Between 1168 and 1188, Maestro Mateo overcame the site's difference in ground levels and finished the masterpiece, the "Portico de la Gloria". In 1211 the Cathedral was finally consecrated.

 

 

The main or Obradoiro facade of the Cathedral. Baroque 18th century.

The image of St. James in pride of place on the Obradoiro facade.

Statue at main entrance

Pilgrim image next to main door

Detail from the East facade. Baroque 18th century. The Holy Entrance faces
Plaza de Quintana and is only opened in Holy years.

St. James

Ornate gold decoration within the Cathedral

 

Portico de la Gloria

The Portico de la Gloria is the masterpiece of Romanesque sculpture, with more than 200 brilliantly made figures. This iconography makes up a theological message that medieval believers could easily decipher. It is believed to represent the story of Man's Salvation and Christ's Resurrection after the Apocalypse. The central arch depicts "Glory", presided by the Resurrected Jesus; the left arch, the people of Israel, and the right arch the Final Judgement. What is certain is that the left half is devoted to the Old Testament and the right to the New Testament, with St. James in the center to welcome pilgrim's into the House of God.

The Portico de la Gloria is undergoing restoration and most of it is hidden by scaffold currently.

 

Seated St. James, with a pilgrim's staff.

The capital of Jesus divine nature - "The Trinity"

The column representing Jesus' genealogy in the so-called "Tree of Jesse".
The marble shows the handprints of thousands of pilgrims.

The head at the bottom is commonly identified with the mythical
hero Hercules overcoming two lions.

Pilgrim's Mass at 12 noon

The tomb of St. James

 

The Botafumeiro

The Botafumeiro is a giant censer, used since the Middle Ages to purify the air in the cathedral that was full of sweaty and dirty pilgrims. It is still used on occasions after mass, and is swung in an amazing pendular swing facing the high altar, rising up to almost touch the transept vault.

Eight men are required to set it in motion; these so-called "tiraboleiros" bring it out of the Library where it is normally kept. It weighs around 62 kg when empty and up to 100 kg when full of incense and coal. After tying it with large knots to a rope, they pump the censer by pulling with strength and precision. In this way, in only a minute and a half, and a total of 17 cycles, the Botafumeiro reaches a speed of 68 km per hour and forms an angle of 82 degrees with the vertical, tracing a 65 metre amplitude arc along the transept

 

The Botafumeiro

Preparing the Botafumeiro

Swinging the Botafumeiro

The swinging Botafumeiro

 

A rare quieter moment in a Cathedral that is usually frenetic

Praterias Facade. Romanesque 11-12th Century. The oldest of the existing facades symbolising
Redemption, with scenes from Jesus' life and passion.

Monastery of San Martino Pinario, Plaza de la Inmaculada. Founded in the 10th century, the building houses the
second largest monastery in Spain.

 

Courtyard, San Martin Pinario

Entrance to San Martin Pinario

View towards the Azabacheria Facade of the Cathedral from San Martin Pinario.
The Camino enters the Cathedral area of Santiago along this side.

Looking towards Colexio de Fonseca (University of Santiago)

Colexio de Fonseca (University of Santiago)

Alonzo III de Fonseca 1534

Quiet square in front of Colexio de Fonseca

 

There are two theories about the scallop-shell symbol of the camino:-

(a) that the pilgrims entered Santiago de Compostela via Rue de Concherios, where workers cleaned and prepared scallop shells, and that the pilgrims picked up a scallop shell as a souvenir or

(b) that the pilgrims brought a scallop shell with them as a drinking vessel to drink from fountains.

 

 

 

Narrow street leading to the Cathedral

 

 

The Pilgrim's Office

The queue of weary pilgrims waiting to get the "Compostela"

 

Church of San Francisco. Baroque-Churrigueresque 19th Century. Its facade with the four
cardinal virtues can be seen from Plaza de Obradoiro.

 

 

Looking across Plaza de Obradoiro from the Cathedral towards the Palace of Raxoi, Santiago City Hall
and home to the Autonomous Government of Galicia President's Office.

Looking from the Cathedral steps across Plaza do Obradoiro towards the Hostal dos Reis Catolicos,
a 15th century pilgrim's hospital and shelter, converted into the 5-star Parador Hotel.

Entrance to the Parador Hotel

Inside the Parador Hotel

Courtyard inside the Parador Hotel

Taking coffee at the Parador Hotel

Church of San Fructuoso

Iglesia de San Martin

Museum de Peregrinos

Wanna-be Peregrino resting her weary feet

 

 

Plaza Abastos Market

 

The meat section

Cheeses

Fish, including the ubiquitous hake or merluza.

.... and of course the scallop shells

Flowers

Church San Fiz de Solovio, next to the market

Looking over the city towards the Cathedral from the Convent of Belvis

Last night celebratory dinner with fellow-perigrinos at Paradiso Cafeteria, Rua del Villar.
Left-to-right Tom, Rose, Molly, Eric and Sue

The 10-room Hotel San Clemente, less than 5 minutes from the Cathedral