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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright

 

 

 

Camino Frances - 2014

Padrón

 

Often with a day to spare in Santiago de Compostela, the pilgrim will spend 6 hours on a bus for the return journey to Finisterre. And for what? While the scenery on the bus trip itself is beautiful as you run along the coast, Cape Finisterre is under whelming to say the least. And what does it have to do with the veneration of St. James?

But closer to hand, and an altogether more delightful and historic place is Padrón. In his 1976 book "The Way of Saint James", T. A. Layton writes :-

About 11 miles from the Atlantic coast, on the River Sar and near its confluence with the swift flowing Rive Ulla, is the town of Padrón, with 8,000 inhabitants, known and important in Roman times as Iria Flavia. It is a charming, untidy, multi-styled town which was of such moment to the pilgrims that they grew up saying:-

"Quien vay a Santiago e non va al Padrón
O faz Romario o no"

"He who goes to Santiago and not to Padrón
Either does the pilgrimage or does not"

It was St James the Greater who caused the change of name, for when his disciples brought his body to Iria Flavia the boat was moored to a stone pillar or pedron which was part of the Roman altar that can still be seen and venerated under the high altar at the parish church. I have wandered around the town so many times that I think I really have the feel of the place. By the main square is a lovely, old pilgrim's cross and near by the Carmen fountain with a modern though excellent representation of St James in the little boat that brought him to Galicia; on the other side of the Sar, which has a long tree-lined esplanade beside the river, is the seventeenth-century Convent of El Carmen

You can travel to Padrón by bus or train, but the former is probably the most convenient. Buses depart from the "Estacion Autobus" frequently and the cost of the return ticket is Euros 4-20.

 

   
 

 

 

 

I took the 10 a.m. bus and arrived at the small bus station in Padrón at 10-30 a.m. From there is was just a short walk into the town. The Xunta De Galicia tourism office kindly provided a map showing the key places to see in Padrón.

 

  Key sights  
  02 Cross "Fondo da Vila" alley to reach the intersection between "Longa e Tafona" street (where the Baker's Guild used to be situated) and "Tetuan Street" where the present Court of Law building stands.  
  06 "Alfoli Do Sal" a former salt depot building from the 12th century  
  08 "Quito Square", a Renaissance work by Melchor Velasco Aguero (1666)  
  12 Pilgrim's hospital from the 15th to the 19th century, a work by Archbishop Rodrigo de Luna.  
  13 The Church of St. James  
  19 St. James's Bridge (19th Century)  
  20 Carme Fountain, built in the 16th Century and reformed in the 18th Century  
  23 Carme Convent (1737-1744), built thanks to donations given by the Marquis of Bendana, The Count of St. John and the parishioners of St. James's Parish Church of Padrón. It was inaugurated on 16th July 1752 and was inhabited by the Carmelitan Fathers until 1836, when the Dominican fathers took over.  
  24 Market place, built by Laureano Novoa (1903)  
  25 Monument to Rosalia de Castro, a romantic poet  

 

Arriving at Padrón bus station

 

The "Salt Building" on the left

 

 

Looking over the Sar River across St. James's Bridge to St. James's Church

St James's Church

St. James's Church

 

 

St James

Beware of hellfire and damnation!

Carme Convent

Carme Fountain with Carme Convent in the background

 

 

View towards St. James's Church from Carme Convent

 

 

Riverside Walk

I was invited to join in a game of "A Chave" which is similar to petanc except you throw an
iron puck-shaped object with the aim of hitting the cross piece.

Statue of Rosalia de Castro

The tree-lined riverside walk

PC............ Padrón Cat