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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright
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The Camino de Invierno

Day 2 Orellán (Las Médulas) to O Barco de Valdeorras

Saturday 27th April 2019

 

Distance Time Elevation in meters

Km
Elapsed
Hrs-Mins
Moving
Hrs-Mins
Gain Loss Min Max
24.5 7H35 5H12 441 860 359 942

   

   

 

Courtesy of www.gronze.com

Courtesy of www.gronze.com

 

Breakfast was not until 9-15 and I wanted to be away earlier than that, so Isabella kindly gave me a huge chunk of cake to take with me to eat on the way. I was somewhat concerned that I might have to back-track down the road towards Carucedo to get to Las Médulas, but Isabel showed me a route that exited via her back garden on to a ridge, and this eventually led to Mirador de Orellán. She then pointed out on a map how I could get from Mirador de Orellán to Las Médulas through the forest on a path that went towards La Cuevona.

 

Courtesy of O Palleiro do Pe do Forno, Orellán

Looking back over Orellán as I left early morning

Mirador de Orellán 1.

Las Médulas - a landscape of red and green

Gold was discovered when this area was part of the Roman Empire. It was originally located by panning in the River Sil, but it was realised that the source was the hills around Las Médulas. Water was the principal force used to break open the mountains, the water being carried from the Aquilanos mountains by a series of sloping channels. Shafts and galleries were built with wide an narrow parts, and the water was channeled in causing an explosive compression of the air.

 

 

 

Mirador de Orellán3.

Looking back to Mirador de Orellán3.

The path going off through the forest to La Cuevona and Las Médulas

 

I was pleased that it was a recognised track and I would be unlikely to get lost

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Las Médulas straight on passed the fountain: La Cuevona to the right

 

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The road down to Las Médulas

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Casa Rural Agoga

The Visitor Centre

Back on the Camino

 

 

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Looks a nice place to stay in Las Médulas

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Leaving Las Médulas

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Yeres to the left, Camino to the right. You could easily miss this turn

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Approaching Puente Domingo Flórez

As I approached Puente Domingo Flórez I was assailed first of all by 6 quad bikes going at full tilt up the dirt track; they were followed by several scambles motorbikes, and then about 250 mountain bikers in a race. It was obviously a big day for the town and they had marshals everywhere stopping the traffic. After Puente Domingo Flórez you go through Quereño and out parallel to the River Sil.

 

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Leaving Quereño

A new style of mojon utilising the natural slate mined nearby

A great place for lunch, overlooking the River Sil

 

The surrounding hills and slate mines

The Camino drops down to the banks of the River Sil

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Passing under the railway line as you gain height

Another great picnic area

One of the few trains to use the Monforte - Ponferrada line

 

 

 

Coming into Pumares with 200 km to go to Santiago

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One of the few drinking fountains, just before I left Pumares and headed to Nogueiras

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dropping down to Sobradelo. By now it was getting to be late in the afternoon of Saturday, and I was getting concerned about finding and getting into into my Hostal for the night. My right knee was troubling me and it was quite hot, so I took a taxi for the short ride into O Barco de Valdeorras.

 

O Barco de Valdeorras railway station

I was interested to get a train time table for the stretch between Monforte de Lemos and Ponferrada, as all along the Camino de Invierno there are railway stations. I thought that if necessary it might be possible to use the train to shorten a day's walk, and then go back on the train the next day to resume. In the entrance hall of the station, attached to the wall with sellotape was..... an Horario (Timetable). Yes! Just what I wanted. I approached the ticket window and asked the lady behind if I could have an "Horario". I pointed to the one on the wall and said that was the timetable I was referring to. "We don't do timetables" she said. I noticed just behind her, on a table a stack of the timetables about an inch high. I pointed to them as said that that was the thing I wanted to have. She glanced at the pile of timetables and said "Those are for display. We don't give them out". I then noticed that she had something similar, a photostat copy to the right of her desk. "Is that a time table" I asked? By now she was getting a bit irritated at my insistence and said again "We don't do timetables". With this the shutter came down with a clunk! End of conversation!

I waited for the evening train to come in and the people to get on. There are so few trains down this line that it is not worth considering to use them. The train came in and I was surprised how old it was, and it looked really scruffy with graffiti all over it. I left the railway station with my next quest..... to find food! I managed to find a restaurant next to the river which started serving food from 8 p.m. I sat with a beer waiting for food service to commence. I resorted to my staple choice...... Jamon Serrano, Queso and Patatas Bravas. I wonder if you can overdose on Jamon Serrano? I am sure that by the end of this trip I will have proved or disproved this!

 

The evening train to Monforte de Lemos

The promenade along the River Sil as night falls

 

Accommodation

 

 

Hostal Mayo

Basic but clean room