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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright

 

The Camino de Invierno

Day 3 O Barco de Valdeorras to A Rúa de Valdeorras

Sunday 28th April 2019

Distance Time Elevation in meters

Km
Elapsed
Hrs-Mins
Moving
Hrs-Mins
Gain Loss Min Max
18.82 4H54 3H53 304 290 298 502

   

   

 

Courtesy of www.gronze.com

Courtesy of www.gronze.com

I left at 8 a.m. the next day and got a coffee in the coffee shop next to Hostal Mayo. Finding the camino from the hostal was easy, just down the same street towards the railway line and under the railway bridge. I was aware that there was an alternative route to see Monasterio de Xagoaza, but having looked at the map I realised that this put 4 or 5 km on the walk with extra climbing, and had decided not to do it.

 

Under the railway line

 

However, as I joined the camino the other side of the railway line and say the big sign pointing to Monasterio de Xagoaza I thought, you know what, I might not be back along this way so I should make the effort. I turned to the right and started the climb.

 

 

Monasterio de Xagoaza is to the left here, but there is an albergue, "Albergue de Xagoaza" to the right.

At this junction, Monasterio de Xagoaza is ahead, but the return path comes back to this junction and towards Tremiñá

 

Wonderful tiles roofs using local slate

Monasterio de Xagoaza

 

 

Igrexa de San Miguel de Xagoaza

This church has a Romanesque origin, between the 12th and 13th centuries, as it can be verified in the semicircular apse and the remains of the capitals. In the 8th century the Order of Malta, on which it depended together with the monastery of San Miguel, reconstructed both buildings, recording it with its inscription of its symbol, the eight-pointed star, on the front of the church and on the priory staircase.

Inside the presbytery, there are remains of Mannerist style paintings attributed to "Master of Xagoaza" as well as a baroque altarpiece made in 1679 by the master Juan Pascual de Barrio. Also a custody of a 1699 work of Matías González.

Monasterio de San Miguel de Xagoaza

The first reference to this monastery was found in the tomb of San Pedro de Montes, dating from 1092. The information on the tombstone leads us to think od San Miguel de Xagoaza as a place of passage and rest chosen by the kings and notables of the time when they approached these lands.

This was an important religious, administrative and military center during the Middle Ages. It was originally a Priory of Templar Knights that in 1252 passed to the Military Order of St John of Jerusalem, known as Hospitallers Knights and later as the Order of Malta.

After a period of abandonment and ruin, in 1988 it was completely restored and rehabilitated to locate the facilities of Bodegas Godeval.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving Xagoaza I retraced my footsteps and headed towards Arcos, walking parallel to and eventually crossing the N536

The sign showing the way for the return leg

 

 

Igrexa A Proba

 

Igrexa A Proba

It is possible to observe the remains of the Romanesque origins of this church (11th and 12th centuries) on its south and east facades. The window and aspe with projections are also of this time, and they were possibly replaced in later reforms, since they are made of granitic stone, not much frequent in the area.

One of the projections shows a peculiarity; a man touching his genitals and that he has a goiter in his neck, a frequent deformation in these lands.

In the interior there are remains of mural paintings from the 15th century. The major altarpiece, of the 16th century, is very interesting, with paintings with the assumption of the Virgin of Mercy protecting various characters, among them, the Emperor Charles V.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving Arcos, walking parallel to the N120

 

 

Approaching Vilamartin

 

 

Vilamartin..... it was here that I saw the third pilgrim of the trip!

 

 

Embalse de Santiago de Valencia do Sil - Vilamartin de Valdeorras

 

Climbing up above the railway line

Looking back towards the dam

Along the road towards A Rúa

 

 

 

Cresting the hill and approaching A Rúa

 

Chance for a drink at Bar San Roque............. closed!

Igrexa de Santo Estevo

 

Igrexa de Santo Estevo

The origins of this church date back to the 12th century, although most of the construction was carried out in the 17th century, with various subsequent reforms. Important masters of the Astorga School worked on the church, like Martínez Pita, who rehabilitated the nave, and the Arias brothers, who did the paintings.

Of baroque style, it emphasis es the vault with cupola that covers the cruise, and the massive tower with roof of four sides, built of slate and ending in the bell tower.

 

 

 

After the church the camino goes off to the left next to the Campogrande vinyard; my accommodation for the night,
Pacio do Sil, was to the right under the bridge, and passed the next small church, Capela de San Blas, which is actually Vilela not A Rúa

Capela de San Blas

 

Capela de San Blas

Of Neoclassical style, it has a single nave and gable roof. The facade is asymmetrical, built with irregular stones and with an entrance finished in a semicircular arch. At its right there is a similar gap, although smaller and partially walled. The entrance portico - the wood on the steel base and the slate roof - is contemporary, as is the reconstructed bell gable, which has a central gap and a gable roof.

Its origin probably dates to the 12th century, although with several contemporary reconstructions.

 

 

 

 

Accommodation

Pacio do Sil

 

It had been a hot day, so chance to air my clothes was appreciated