1. Lucca to Altopascio (Stage 28.)
Thursday 5th October 2023
Lucca to Altopascio is not a very inspiring stage. First of all you have the walk out of Lucca on tarmac at the side of busy roads, and this continues through Capannori and Porcari. Many larger roads have to be crossed and it is not until the area around Badia Pozzeveri is reached that you feel you are in the countryside. From here it is a long walk into Altopascio itself, again on tarmac. There is a very quick and efficient train service between Lucca and Altopascio, and one wonders whether it would be better to skip this stage all together and to start the walk from Altopascio. |
| Distance |
Time |
Elevation in meters |
Km |
Elapsed
Hrs-Mins |
Moving
Hrs-Mins |
Gain |
Loss |
Min |
Max |
| 19.47 |
5H00 |
3H42 |
71 |
78 |
11 |
31 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
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Courtesy of www.gronze.com
Courtesy of Garmin
Original map courtesy of "The Via Francigena Terre De Mezzo by Roberta Ferraris "
Starting from Piazza San Michele the Via Francigiena goes east along the short stretch of Via Roma into Via Santa Croce. This is the main east-west oriented road of the Roman city, or decumanus. The route passes through the San Gervasio Gate, dating back to 1255 and one of the four original gateways of the 13th century city walls. After this you pass Santa Maria Forisportam, a Romanesque church, which as its name suggests, was originally outside of the city walls or "out-of-town". Passing along Via Elisa you exit the present day walls at Porta Elisa. Crossing Viale Giacomo Marconi into Via Cadorna, you turn left along Via Tiglio and then right into Via Romana. |
Corner of V. Vittorio Venito and Piazza San Michele
San Michelle
The first of many Via Francigena red and white signs that would guide me along my way
Starting from Piazza San Michelle, the route goes down Via Roma eastwards.
The road changes to Via Santa Croce
San Gervasio Gate, which coincides with the perimeter of the Roman walls.
Porta Elisa
The walking path atop the city walls
Looking back at Porta Elisa
The city walls
Santuario Di S. Gemma
Leaving Lucca on the Via Romana
The Best Western Grand Hotel Guinigi
At this small Gothic chapel the path goes off into the countryside to the right
The ancient church of San Michele at Antraccoli
The church of Saint Michele of Antraccoli was founded in 777, as private chapel of an aristocratic family; in the 12th century a village grew around it. The church was then rebuilt along Romanesque lines. The development of the village in the following centuries led to the renovation and enlargement of the church. Today the church of San Michele shows a Latin cross plan with a bell tower on the north side.
Courtesy of https://www.puccinilands.it/en/card/277/saint-michele-of-antraccoli |
Crossing the provincial A road della Madonnina
Capannori
Pomegranates
The Church of Santi Quirico e Giulitta
Festa della Madonna del Rosario
Porcari
The church of San Giusto in Porcari
It is impossible to miss this church when visiting Porcari or the surrounding areas. It is on a raised position, dominating the village with the luminous effect of the white marble that was used to build it. It is the main church of the town and dedicated to San Giusto. It stands next to a lovely bell tower and the square that is reached by taking a short uphill climb from where you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the Piana di Lucca and Porcari.
A first building was constructed in the 15th century where there was once another church dedicated to San Giovanni, and then significantly modified in 1745 when the current structure with three naves was completed. Further restructuring work was completed in the early 20th century, when frescoes were painted by Michele Marcucci. The neo-medieval façade dates back to 1884.
Courtesy of www.visittuscany.com |
After going through Porcari and a long way along the road you reach Turchetto,
where the path deviates to the right (via Serchio).
Via Serchio
After crossing a busy road by the "Pam" building, the path goes off into the countryside
Pozzeveri Abbey
Badia Pozzeveri is a part of the municipality of Altopascio that formed around the Badia di San Pietro, a Camaldolese abbey that was a crossing point for centuries for pilgrims who travelled the stage of the Via Francigena between Lucca and Altopascio.
This small monastery is one of the most important in the Lucca plain and has been active since medieval times. It's located a short distance from Altopascioi in an area that unites the borders of the provinces of Lucca, Pistoia, Pisa and Florence.
The first mentions of the Badia Pozzeveri area are found in historical documents dating to 952 and 1039, where it's stated that the "Burgo de Poctieuli" area is located on the banks of the former marshes of Bientina and on the road between Lucca and the Spedale di Altopascio.
Courtesy of www.visittuscany.com |
Hospitale S. Pietro Badia Pozzeveri
Mick sitting down for refreshments; but there is still quite a way to go so it does not do to get too comfortable.
At last, reaching the T-junction at Altopascio. The Hotel Paola is just a few meters along the main road to the right
Hotel Paola
Altopascio
Torre Campanaria
Between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries the Via Francigena profoundly influenced the history of the Tuscan territories. Right from its origins this road, built by Longobards for linking the Kingdom of Pavia with the dukedoms of Lucca and Benevento, wound its way through the valleys of central Tuscany, avoiding the territories controlled by the Byzantines, bringing with it a profound transformation in the territorial and road-network. During the era of Charles the Great it became the main transiting, economic and cultural connection between the peninsular and the area beyond the Alps, as well as the main axis of the Holy Roman Empire. From that time on it was transited not only by pilgrims heading for Rome, the center of Christianity in Europe, but also by kings, princes and ecclesiastical dignities who left invaluable testimonies of their journeys. The most renown of these was Sigeric, the Archbishop of Canterbury who on his return journey from Rome between the years 990 and 994, documented in great detail the halting places along the way. The Via Francigena brought about the expansion of ideas, innovations, cultural styles and artistic influences. Above all, in the religious buildings, structural and symbolic elements can be found which are typical of the pilgrimages, like the twin portals and the labyrinth, representing the pathway towards God, as well as features reminiscent of the Romanesque architecture from beyond the Alps, enhanced in form and style by local influence, like that of Pisa or Volterra. |
Piazza Ricasoli
Accommodation
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