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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright

 

9. San Quirico d'Orcia ( Galina) to Radicofani (Stage 36)

Saturday 14th October 2023

The guidebook quotes the walk from San Quirico d'Orcia to Radicofani as 32.3 km with 950m of climbing and 550m of descent. I felt I could probably do this, but it would likely take over 10 hours and I would be unlikely to enjoy it. There is an option to split the walk into two 16 km sections by staying overnight at Gallina, but my efforts to find somewhere to stay had been unfruitful. Gallina is hardly a village; it is more like a cluster of a few houses and buildings! So my thoughts turned to getting a bus to Gallina, and walking from Gallina to Radicofani.

I did not have much success in finding out if there was a bus to Gallina on the internet, so I hoped that when I arrived at Hotel Garibaldi the proprietor would be able to tell me. I asked the question "Is there a bus to Gallina tomorrow?" and got a very simple reply "I don't know!". So at 3-50 p.m. on Friday afternoon I did not have any plan at all for Saturday. I feared I might have to walk all the way!

I walked into town to find a tourist office. There was nothing at the first location I tried, but walking up the main street I spotted an information office. The lady was most helpful when I explained my predicament. Yes, she said," there is a bus at 7-20 a.m. You have the choice of taking it to Gallina, leaving about 16 km to walk, or you could take it to la Bisarca, leaving about 8 km to walk", she added. The bus would be a 54A and would be heading for Piancastagnaio. The next question was where could I catch it? I had already been lost in San Quirico once, and I could imagine missing the bus on Saturday morning when trying to find the bus stop. When I told her that I was staying at Hotel Garibaldi, she said "well in that case it is easy, the bus will stop at the bus stop across the road from Garibaldi at 7-22 a.m. She even showed me on the map where the nearest Tabac was to buy a ticket, and for good measure stamped my pilgrim Credential. She was really helpful and I regret not noting her name.

 

 

Distance Time Elevation in meters

Km
Elapsed
Hrs-Mins
Moving
Hrs-Mins
Gain Loss Min Max
17.34 5H10 3H54 593 107 307 806

   

   

 

Courtesy of www.gronze.com

Courtesy of Garmin

Original map courtesy of "The Via Francigena Terre De Mezzo by Roberta Ferraris "

A very early start from Hotel Garibaldi. There was no way I was going to miss the bus!

Thank the Lord! The bus turned up at 7-23 a.m. and I was the only passenger!

Leaving San Quirico

The sun was just coming up

 

This is Gallina where he dropped me. At first I thought he had made a mistake as there was nothing there!

I spotted a solitary walker, so at least I knew which way to go to join the Via Francigena,
but it was a lonely feeling being dropped off in the middle of nowhere! I set off walking at 7-40 a.m.

Looking back to Gallina...... very little there!

Picking up the trail by the bridge as the road swings to the left

 

 

Chiesa di San Pellegrino

Mentioned as Abricula by Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury,the hospice of Briccole was a major resting site along the Via Francigena. Among its guests, Matilda of Canossa, Philippe Auguste, King of France, and Charles d'Anjou's troops in 1288. It was the property of the Viscounts of Campiglia, then San Salvatore's abbey's monks who late in the thirteenth century sold the village and its territory to the Salimbeni family. Late in the thirteenth century, it is mentioned as "Ospitale San peregrini de Obricolis". The church still preserves traces of the Romanesque period such as the masonry work in ashlars at the base and the portal with an architrave surmounted by a rounded arch

 

 

 

 

 

The Abbey Path Diverges at This Point

The locality Ricorsi has probably to be identified with Borgo al Formone, as mentioned in a scroll dated 1064, owned by the Abbey of Santissimo Salvatore in Mount Amiata. From this point, on the ancient Francigena path, came off one of the paths during the Middle Age led to the Benedictine Monastery.

The legend says that Charlemagne, while travelling to Rome on the Francigena path, to be crowned Emperor by the Pope on Christmas 800, had to stop because his army was affected by the plague. The soldiers were treated by the monks of the Abbey with a medicinal herb, later called Erba Carlina. The grateful Charlemagne donated a vast territory to the Abbey; from the Mount Amiata summit to the Paglia River.

 

Erba Carlina

 

The path reaches a T-junction on the SR2 road shortly after the Abbey path diverges and it is a
dangerous crossing. Fortunately there is a tunnel under the road to take you to the other side safely.

 

 

You soon come to a new road bridge with stepping stones across the river

The old bridge

 

 

Podere San Giorgio. They have kindly put a trestle table here for pilgrims, and sometimes they
have a coffee shop open. I met Peter and Charlotte here, a young couple from Belgium, who were kind
enough to offer me food when I realised that the coffee shop was closed.

At last, a glimpse of Radicofani in the distance

2.8 km to go. It was now 12 noon.

 

 

 

 

 

La Grotta Restaurant, one of the first places I came to. I knew that my accommodation was nearby.
People were arriving for Saturday lunch, so I decided to have lunch whilst I had the chance in case the
restaurants were not open Saturday evening.

 

 

The restaurant was full for Saturday lunch. I was lucky to get a table

I know it's naff to take photos in restaurants, but I seem to have been living on pizza and croissants,
so really appreciated this meal
. A nice mixed salad for starters

Tagliatelli with tomato and bacon sauce. This portion size would normally be enough for three meals for me!

Yum! And did I mention the half carafe of red wine and the espresso to follow?
Did I make the right choice? 10 hours of walking or the bus and a good lunch?

A cigar after a good lunch? Even the locals were content with life!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Not a mobile phone in sight. Just sitting and chatting with friends

Sun setting behind the mountains

 

Time for a beer and to make a few notes, and to reflect on what had been a very satisfying day

 

 

Accommodation

Casa del Ciliego