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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright

 

Via Podiensis

Le Puy en Velay to Moissac

21 days - 417 km

16th April to 6th May 2015

 

 

I had a date in my diary of 15th April to start a Camino walk; the only thing was that I could not decide which one to do. My initial thought was the Camino Frances again, but I was afraid that for a third time of walking it would not be so interesting and would not present new experiences. I had researched others such as the Camino Portugues, but friends told me that it is not so interesting between Lisbon and Oporto, and that the autumn was a better time to go. My thoughts turned to the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo when Glenn happened to mention the Via Podiensis. I knew that my Swedish friends had done this many years ago, and after a couple of weeks of frenetic researches I decided to give it a go. I decided to do it as a walk without any commitment on getting from A to B.... just to go and see how far I could get. Not knowing the local conditions and not speaking French I was somewhat apprehensive about accommodation. There were actually very few pilgrims walking the way (I heard that numbers at hotels etc were 30% down) so I had no trouble at all with accommodation. There were French holidays on 1st May and 8th May, so it was essential to book ahead for those nights.

 

  Date From To Hrs Km Cum
Km
  Tues
14 April
Travel to Le Puy en Velay via Lyon Accomodation: Hotel des Capucins      
  Wed
15 April
Sightseeing in Le Puy en Velay Accomodation: Hotel des Capucins      
1 Thurs
16 April
Le Puy en Velay Saint-Privat d'Allier
Gîte-Hotel La Cabourne (Good)
6 24 24
2 Fri
17 April
Saint-Privat d'Allier Saugues (Venteuges)
Les Pierres'd'Antan, Venteuges (Superb)
5.66 20 44
3 Sat
18 April
Saugues (Venteuges) Le Sauvage
Auberge de Sauvage en Gévaudan (Good)
5 20 64
4 Sun
19 April
Le Sauvage Aumont-Aubrac
Hotel-Restaurant Pruniers (Good)
8 29 93
5 Mon
20 April
Aumont-Aubrac Nasbinals
Hotel la Bastide (Good)
6.5 26.5 119.5
6 Tues
21 April
Nasbinals St Chely d'Aubrac
Hotel de la Valee - Les Coudercous (Good)
4.75 17 136.5
7 Wed
22 April
St Chely d'Aubrac St Come d'Olt
Espace Rencontre Angele Merici (Good)
5.5 16 152.5
8 Thurs
23 April
St Come d'Olt Estaing
Le Manoir de la Fabrègues (Superb)
4 15.5 168
9 Fri
24 April
Estaing Espeyrac
Hotel de la Valee (Campagne) (Average)
6 21.5 189.5
10 Sat
25 April
Espeyrac Conques
Chambre d'hôtes Le Chrismo (Average)
3 13 202.5
11 Sun
26 April
Conques Decazeville
Hotel Malpel (Poor)
6.5 21 223.5
12 Mon
27 April
Decazeville Figeac
Hostellerie de l'Europe (Good)
6.5 28.5 252
13 Tues
28 April
Figeac Gréalou
Gîte Ecoasis (Superb)

5.5 20 272
14 Wed
29 April
Grealou Cajarc
Auberge du Pont (Poor)
3.5 12 284
15 Thurs
30 April
Cajarc Varaire
Gîte-Restaurant des Marronniers (Good)
7 26 310
16 Fri
1 May
Varaire La Pech
Gîte d'Etape Letour La Pech (Average)
5 20 330
17 Sat
2 May
La Pech Cahors
Hotel-Restaurant La Chartreuse
(Good)
3 13 343
18 Sun
3 May
Cahors Grizou (Lascabanes)
Ch. d'hôtes La Grange de Grizou
(Superb)
8 29 372
19 Mon
4 May
Grizou Lauzerte
Gîte-Chambre d'hôtes Les Figuiers (Good)
6.25 21 393
20 Tues
5 May
Lauzerte Moissac
Chambre d'hôtes Le Jardin Suspendu
7 24 417
21 Wed 6 May

Train to Toulouse Matabiau Station, taxi to Toulouse Blagnac Airport and Easyjet flight to London Gatwick

     
          417

Gîte?? Chambre d'Hôtes??

A Gîte is a specific type of holiday accommodation, a holiday home available for rent. Gîtes are usually fully furnished and equipped for self-catering. Many owners choose to handle their own rentals. Technically, to be called a gîte, the owner must live close by in order to provide help, assistance, and a warm welcome to guests. Gîtes are generally old farmworkers' cottages or converted outbuildings and barns within proximity of the owner's principal residence. This type of holiday accommodation is sometimes regarded as "basic"' in terms of facilities; however, most gîtes are generally very well kept, and a growing number will have excellent facilities such as fully fitted kitchens, en-suite bathrooms, TV, DVD, and access to a swimming pool or other sporting activities. Some gîtes don't provide linen as standard; many gîte owners do include linen at least as an option. All gîte owners are required to ensure that their gîtes are safe and comply with the necessary rules, regulations, and insurance requirements.

Gîte Rural
Offers self-catering accommodation located in the countryside, by the sea, or in the mountains. The gîte is completely self-contained with one or more bedrooms, a lounge or dining room, a kitchen and bathroom facilities.

Gîtes d'Etape
Stopover and holiday getaways off the beaten track for groups of walkers or cyclists.

Chambre d'Hôtes
Bed and Breakfast the French way. Stay as a guest in a private home with a full breakfast provided. Some hosts offer Table d'Hôtes (table service) which provide half board or full board service. If Table d'Hôtes is not available there is usually a local restaurant available for evening meals.


The term "gîte" is sometimes confused with "chambre d'hôtes", but in fact the two are different. A "chambre d'hôtes" is necessarily lived in by the service provider and breakfast served each morning. A "gîte" is a holiday home in an independent building. A chambre d'hôtes thus is more akin to a bed and breakfast.

 

Travel Details

Outbound

 

ETD 08:10 hrs London Gatwick EZY 8415
ETA 10:50 hrs Lyon–Saint-Exupéry Airport

Rhonexpress Tram ETD Lyon–Saint-Exupéry Airport 11:30 hrs
ETA Lyon Part Dieu Station 12:00 hrs

Train ETD Lyon Part Dieu Station14:52 hrs
ETA St Etienne Châteaucreux 15:40 hrs

Train ETD St Etienne Châteaucreux 15:53 hrs
ETA Le Puy en Velay 17:20 hrs

 


Lyon has three train stations : Lyon Part Dieu and Lyon Perrache in the City, and Lyon Saint-Exupéry TGV adjacent to the airport. The Rhônexpress tramway system links Lyon–Saint-Exupéry Airport and TGV station with Lyon Part Dieu railway station 24 km (15 miles) away. When arriving at Saint-Exupéry, either by plane or by train, the Rhônexpress tramway is well signposted. There is a ticket vending machine in the main hall which has a button for English, and the charge is Euro 15.80 per person to Lyon Part Dieu Station. The vending machine accepts 5, 10 and 20 euro notes. The tram itself is located immediately to the right of the exit one level down.

 

Lyon Airport; Rhônexpress ticket macine (red) on the right hand side

The platform is one level down

Rhônexpress train to Lyon Part Dieu station

Rhônexpress tram pulls up right outside Lyon Part Dieu Station

I arrived at Lyon Part Dieu station around 12 noon. There are regular trains to St Etienne Châteaucreux, but not so many from St Etienne Châteaucreux to Le Puy en Velay. Rather than take an early train to St Etienne Châteaucreux, I decided to wait at Lyon Part Dieu station and minimise the wait at St Etienne Châteaucreux (a much smaller station). The combinaton I chose gave me 13 minutes to change trains. The cost of a ticket from Lyon Part Dieu Station to Le Puy en Velay is normally Euro 24.30, but I paid Euro 18.60 as a "senior citizen".

 

 

Train at Lyon Part Dieu heading for St Etienne Châteaucreux

After St Etienne, the train takes a branch line along the course of The Loire towards Le Puy en Velay,
via Monistrol sur Loire and Retournac

Remains at Artias, close to Le Puy en Velay

Coming into Le Puy station

Arrival at Le Puy en Velay

Homebound

I took a train from Moissac to Toulouse Matabiau station, and then transferred to Toulose Blagnac airport. There are not too many tains from Moissac to Toulouse Matabiau. The cost is normally Euro 14.70, but my ticket was Euro 11.10 as a "senior citizen".

 

  ETD Moissac ETA Toulouse Matabiau  
  07-51 hrs 08-44 hrs  
  08-48 hrs 09-40 hrs  
  12-52 hrs 13-56 hrs  
  17-48 hrs 18-40 hrs  

Local train from Moissac to Toulouse

The transfer from Toulouse Matabiau station to Toulouse Blagnac Airport, some 5 km away, should be painless as there is the Airport Shuttle/Navette Aéroport (www.tisseo.fr) bus at Euro 8 per person. The shuttle starts at 5 a.m. and there are 3 buses per hour until 21-20 hrs. Unfortunately the buses were on strike the day I was there and I took a taxi at a cost of Euro 23.80. From Toulouse Blagnac I flew home on Easyjet:-

 

  Easyjet EZY5338 ETD Toulouse Blagnac 17-25 hrs  
  ETA London Gatwick 18-15 hrs  

 

Postage Home

Upon reaching Le Puy en Velay I was somewhat concerned about the weight of my rucksack. I had done it again.... packed too much. Admittedly I had a bivvy bag just in case I could not get a room or a bed, but I decided that I was unlikely to use this. Consequently I went to the post office, bought a box, and sent home 1.75 kg for a cost of Euro 18

 

 

The Route

The Via Podiensis or the Le Puy Route is one of the four routes through France on the pilgrimage to the tomb of St. James in Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain. It leaves from Le Puy en Velay and crosses the countryside in stages to the basque village of Ostabat. Near there it merges with two of the other routes, the via Turonensis and the via Lemovicensis which merge a little earlier.

The three then become the Navarre Route, passing via the French town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and crossing the Pyrenees and the Spanish border by one path or another to Roncesvalles in the Spanish province of Basse-Navarre. Together they serve as the principal pilgrimage route across Spain, known as the Camino Frances. The fourth French route, the via Tolosane, crosses the Pyrenees at a different point (Somport), becomes the Aragonese Way when it enters Spain, and joins the Camino Frances further to the west.

Before le Puy, the Via Gebennensis leaves from Geneva, gathering Swiss and German pilgrims and feeding into the Via Podiensis. Though it bears a Latin name, the Via Gebennensis is a modern route laid out in 1980-90, though the numerous hospitals it passes testify to the passage of pilgrims along this route in earlier ages.

From Geneva to the Pyrenees, the two routes (Via Gebennensis and Via Podiensis) are waymarked as one of the French major hiking routes, the GR 65, with a few local variations or detours, including GR 651 through the valley of Célé and GR 652 via Rocamadour.

 

 

The route begins at Le Puy en Velay, Haute-Loire in the volcanic region of the south-east of the Auvergne. Le Puy is famous for lace making as well as its lentils. It makes its way across the Margaride plateau to the wild Gévaudan, an area famous for the mythical beast "La Bête du Gévaudan". After that it climbs even higher to the open plateau of the Aubrac with its meadows rising to 4,000 ft. The route then changes dramatically as it drops down through deep wooded gorges of the Lot Valley, hugging the banks of the Lot River until it reaches Estaing. From here it climbs again, before plunging down into the medieval village of Conques. From here the countryside opens out again as it passes through the chalky wooded area of the Quercy with its dovecotes ("pigeonniers"), half-timbered houses and its dolmens. It then makes its way into Cahors across the "causse", a dry, undulating limestone plateau covered with scrubby vegetation. The countryside then flattens out with the rolling landscapes of the départment of the Tarn et Garonne, crossing the Garonne near Moissac.

On the route, which is designated the GR65, there is a very imple guide system. At first these signs appear difficult to see, and you don't have a lot of confidence in them, but quite quickly you learn to spot them at 100 yards and it becomes instinctive to follow the route.

 

 

 

 

 

The Pilgrim's Credential

The "Pilgrim's Passport" or "Créanciale" can be obtained from the sacristy of the Cathedral in Le Puy en Velay. In Spain, the passport is of importance (a) in obtaining a bed for the night at the many "albergues" and (b) as proof of the journey in order to obtain the "Compostella" in Santiago, but in France it is more of a hobby to obtain the many pleasantly designed stamps (or "tampons" as they are called in France).

 

 

 

 

Two Norwegian pilgrims obtaining their Créanciale in the sacristy of the Cathedral in Le Puy

Reference Books and Guides

The Michelin "Chemins de Compostelle" Guide is really useful in giving and overall outline of the route, with maps and height profiles, but lacks some of the on-the-ground route detail and accommodation information.

 

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Probably the best book for detailed maps linked to accommodation is the French "Miam Miam Dodo" ; even though this is written in French it is easy to understand and use.

 

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A general guide in English is the Cicerone Guide by Alison Raju

 

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