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Cornwall Morganeering Copyright

 

Via Podiensis

Day 8 St Come d'Olt to Estaing

23rd April 2015

 

Distance Time Elevation in meters

Km
Elapsed
Hrs-Mins
Moving
Hrs-Mins
Gain Loss Min Max
13.7 5H01 3H45 265 200 333 469

   

   
 

 

 

Heading into the centre of St Come d'Olt from Angele Merici

 

 

 

The couple I first saw at Monistrol d'Allier are still truckin'!

Crossing the River Lot as I leave St. Come d'Olt

Looking back at St. Come d'Olt

Pilgrim with laden horse; Jean-Jacques and Renée on the right

 


Croix de St Hilarian

According to the legend, St Hilarian, Patron Saint of Espalion, was seized in Persia by the Saracens who cut off his head which was picked up, washed and taken to his mother in the village of Levinhac


 

 

Deviation to visit the Chapelle de Perse

Get the feeling you are being watched?

Chapelle de Perse

 

The Romanesque Church of Persia, built between the late eleventh century and the beginning of the twelfth. The Church of Persia was parish church of Espalion to construction in the sixteenth century, the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church (currently Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions and the Diving Bell) in the center of the fortified town. The Church of Persia was situated on one of the roads leading to Compostela from Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques. The portal, with its monumental archivolt and tympanum is with that of Conques: one of only two examples of large sculptural decoration that keeps the Rouergue from the Romanesque period. The actual eardrum illustrates the theme of Pentecost the Virgin Mary receives the Holy Spirit in the dove dune shape and tongues of fire are heading to the apostles ten in number. In the monolith inteau mingle confusedly the themes of weighing of souls and the Last Judgement: in the center, below the two scales of the balance which the plague has disappeared, the deceased is lying down on his bed, his soul is represented a naked body that compete angels and demons. On the right, in a mandorla, Christ is surrounded by the symbols of the four evangelists: the eagle for John, the bull for Luke, the lion and the man Marc Mathieu. At left, a damned rushed into the jaws of Leviathan at the entrance to hell where Satan throne.

Other sculptural elements stand out: the Adoration of the Magi Kings in the upper left of the portal, a beautiful Madonna and Child inspired by the Auvergne school, right above the back door. There are a crown of forty corbels under the eaves. To appreciate the elegance of the polygonal sanctuary, we must observe, below, from the banks of the creek.

Inside, the triumphal arch decorated with carved capitals opens with a chorus ended with an apse covered five sections of a vault in a cul-de-four.

 

 

 

The tympanum

 

 

 

Approaching Espalion

Even pilgrim horses have to eat!

Vieux Palais

 

The Old Palace (Vieux Palais) was built in the Renaissance style in 1572 by the Governor of Espalion; its twin towers were for defensive purposes. Successively a Town Hall, then Courthouse (hence its name); at that time the basement was the old prison. It was classified an historic monument in 1912, and converted into an artist's residence in 1992. From the terrace there is an exceptional view of the River Lot, the old Bridge, the Grave quarter and the bronze diver - a tribute to Rouquayrol and Denayrouze, of Espalion, inventors of the first autonomous diving machine.

In 1860 Benoit Rouquayrol patented a breathing apparatus which was in fact an early form of ‘demand-valve’ regulator similar in principle to the ones used for modern scuba diving today. Initially Rouquayrol devised his ‘regulator’ for use in smoke filled rooms and underground mines where smoke or poisonous gases made it impossible to breathe. However in 1864, after collaboration with a French navy lieutenant, ‘Auguste Denayrouze’, the apparatus was adapted for use underwater. The ‘demand valve’ principle is still used in all modern scuba diving regulators today.

 

The old Bridge

 

Leaving Espalion, you soon some across another famous church

L'eglise Saint Pierre de Bessuejouls

 

 

Stopping for refreshment with Canadians Ritch and Noirin

A different take on St James

Looking back across the valley to the church

 

The path gets a bit overgrown

 

Arriving in Estaing

 

The Gothic bridge

 

 

The Gothic bridge that straddles the Lot is classed as UNESCO world heritage as part of the Chemins de St Jacques de Compostelle. The wrought iron cross, symbol of the Aveyron. This cross inspired the goldsmith Henri Lesieur who made it into a famous gold work of art. Opposite, is the statue of François d’Estaing, Bishop of Rodez, welcoming pilgrims.

 

 

Accommodation Notes

 

It is nice when you arrive at your destination to have a reservation and to find the place quickly. As soon as I arrived in Estaing I realised that the place I had reserved was not actually in Estaing itself, but was between 4 and 8 km (depending upon whom you asked) back along the banks of the River Lot in the direction I had just come, but on the other side of the river along the D920. I was tired, wasn't sure whether I could find the place easily, and in any case the road seemed to be busy and dangerous to walk along. I went into the nearest bar and asked if they could get a taxi for me. They phoned, and advised me that it would be 30 minutes before a taxi could come.... I accepted, and what else was there to do but to have a beer whilst I waited. As it turned out the place I was staying, Le Manoir de la Fabrègues, turned out to be very posh and luxurious. The owner spoke very good English and through conversation we found that we had both been working in Shanghai around the same time. He had been engaged in setting up the 900-room Sheraton Hotel in Shanghai. He said that he would have come to Estaing to pick me up, but I had not known that. I was the only guest that evening, so rather than put me in the large dining room, he set up a table specially for me in a small lounge in the old part, built in 1763, where I had my dinner in front of an open log fire. A delightful meal in a wonderful setting.

 

http://www.manoirattitude.com

View from my room towards the River Lot

My room

The lounge, my private dining room for the evening

Beautiful antique cut glass